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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.