Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
